The church of San Nicolò, believed to be the oldest parish church in Pontremoli, is mentioned for the first time in 1126 but certainly had an older origin. Of Benedictine origin, dependent on the Aulla abbey, it was founded at the foot of the Piagnaro castle and faced west on the road to the fortified village, contrary to its current orientation. It does not overlook a square but fits into the older building fabric so as to blend in with the neighboring historic buildings for an inattentive observer.

The facade, recently built, is plastered, simple and in an ancient style and has three orders with some elements in relief; the portal and the top portion of the faà§ade have two similar tympanums, rounded and cut in the centre. The statue of the saint is placed on the architrave of the portal, while the large window on the counter-faà§ade is framed by an exaphora with smooth columns.

The interior of the church consists of a single hall and has various styles: in it Romanesque, Renaissance and neoclassical coexist, but the Baroque is predominantly recognized, typical of Lunigiana churches which have undergone alterations over the centuries. In a marble niche of the main altar, it preserves the Black Christ, an image of uncertain origin, which is honored every year on 14 September for the feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. It is said that the crucifix was brought to Pontremoli by a pilgrim hosted by a pious woman named Liberata; when the traveler left, the crucifix was found wrapped in a sack. Inside we also find the statue of the Madonna del Carmine and a precious canvas by Giuseppe Bottani representing the Transit of San Francesco Saverio.

photos: arch. Elia Santini